Whats cooking in Panama?

Life in La Mina has been going great. Two months have passed and I know everyone on a first name basis and have built some great friendships.

In terms of work, I have been organizing 2 main projects. The first primary project is ecological stoves. The traditional cook method in Panama involves the pot on top of 3 rocks and underneath is an open flame. However, people is it an open flame, this method uses an abundant amount of firewood, takes a long time to cook since the heat escapes, and the smoke has hazardous effects on the cookers. 

Traditional cooking method

The ecological stove is very similar to a fireplace that encloses the flame and traps in the heat. There are three main benefits to the eco-stove:

1. Less firewood is used. Because the heat is trapped, it is not necessary to use as much firewood. As a conservation volunteer, I am promoting the reduction of wood use and deforestation. Estimates vary, but deforestation is thought to claim up to 50,000 hectares (123,500 acres) of forest a year in Panama. Also, since less time is required to look for firewood, there are social impacts. With development, more women are leaving to look for work and are learning trades to earn their own salary. With less time spent around the house (looking for wood) this time can be spent supporting the family.

2. Less smoke. Millions of Panamanians suffer from lung diseases such as asthma, lung cancer, cystic fibrosis, and bronchitis. It is estimated that many of these sickness were smoke related from cooking over an open fire. It is estimated that the eco-stoves produce up to 50% less smoke.

3. Cooks faster. It is estimated that the eco stove cooks in half the time of the traditional 3 rock method.

Bad ass eco stove

Community members and I picking up materials

Making the bricks

The materials mainly consist of bricks and cement. I will be writing a grant to pay for the bricks, cement, and iron grills. With the help of the community, participants will be providing local materials such as sand, rocks, and ash.




There have been some challenges that have come along with the eco stove project. As a volunteer we are always trying to promote educational projects. For those who wanted to participate in the project and receive a stove in their home, I had several mandatory meetings (stove benefits and deforestation), participants had to agree to look for their own local materials, bought materials will be dropped off in a local area and participants had to agree to look for their materials to bring to their house, and participants agreed to pay $5 to help with transport costs and help pay for food when we have communal work days.
Some participants are trying to get out of the requirements by having family members attend the meetings to share the information. Others just want to pay the $5 and have others look for the materials and participate in the work days. There are also several families who want to participate but do not live permanently in the community, making participation difficult. Others do not use a 3 rock stove and use a gas stove but still want an eco-stove because they see it as an opportunity for a pretty gift (I could criticize the Panamanian government here, who constantly gifts things to its citizens, making the people very dependent on their aid). To help avoid putting all of the decision making on me, I helped found a Stove Committee- president, treasurer, and secretary to help me not only with the challenges but also so the community itself can feel responsible for the project.

The second project we are initiating is trash management. The previous volunteer was able to solicit bins to organize recyclables. Now my job is to create a responsible group to organize transport and funds. There is a recycling facility about an hour away from the community and the Ministry of the Environment has agreed to help with the transport of the recyclables. I have also been working on the educational aspects of the risks of burning trash, the time it takes for trash to decompose and trash crafts.

We started construction on a recycling center. The idea is to build a house to store the bins away from dogs or other animals. And when the bins fill up- we have extra storage. It has been very inspiring seeing the community coming together with the necessary materials- nails, wood, zinc sheets, ect.

I also spend one day a week in the school garden. The students, teachers and I have worked on organic compost, organic bug repellents, seed beds and seed saving.

I have also taken some time to explore the beautiful surrounding areas- aka the province of Cocle. Many community members have a second house close to their farm up in the mountains. I have been lucky enough to hike up into the mountains to check out the beautiful views and enjoy the fresh breeze! 

Also Peace Corps Panama now has its own website! Check it out
http://panama.peacecorps.gov/content/community-environmental-conservation-0

The Times they are a´changing

First, I would like to apologize for the lack of the entries the past few months. There have been quite a few changes for me here in Panama. I have received a site change, a rare but possible occurrence in Peace Corps policy. In Peace Corps terms a site change is the replacement of a volunteer from one post to another due to medical, security or work related issues. But a site change for me means new friends, new culture, new work, new house and a new life. Thankfully, I have had very few medical and security issues during my service in Bocas del Toro, but Peace Corps agreed to move me for the lack of cooperation in my community.

In previous posts I have described some of the challenges I have faced and while I can describe for pages everything terrible that has happened or why they happened (working with an indigenous community, being a woman, community dynamics, education level, poverty level, ect) I would like to use this post to focus on the positives. While leaving the relationships that I have built in Santa Marta was one of the hardest things I have ever done, I know I have made the right to decision and will continue to do what I came to do and share my life with the people of Panama.

I now live in the community of La Mina, located in the province of Coclé. I am much closer to Panama City (unfortunately this means no more trips to Costa Rica) and live in a Latino community. The previous volunteer was in my training group but had to leave her service early. However, the community worked and collaborated with her. In the first year they built 30 ecological stoves and started a recycling program in the school. When she had to leave, Peace Corps saw that La Mina really deserved a volunteer so confidently placed me here. I have been in the community for 3 weeks and absolutely love it. Residents have been heartfelt, welcoming, generous ..everything I could have ever asked for. The teachers in the elementary school have opened their doors and I am helping with conservation education. I also have already formed connections with ANAM (the Panamanian environmental agency) and we have made solid plans to continue working in eco-stoves (I plan to explain eco stoves in another post, stay tuned).

I am blessed and honored to be serving the next year of my life in La Mina. Thank you to all who have supported me through this decision and this hell of a road we call life.

Fun basic info of La Mina (warning: graphic details):

Potable water! No more tapeworms in my tummy
Latrines! No more pooping in a bucket and making compost
Still do not have electricity but there is current governmental work to install it
No cell service L But don’t worry I will climb my hill for 20 minutes to talk to y´all!
New mailing address! Please refer to the Contact information tab
Population: 150, Students in elementary school: 18
Religion: Catholic
Common salary: Sale of oranges, avocados, mangos, coffee and other agricultural goods (yes I do eat all of these fruits almost daily)

The road that leads to La Mina

My new house 

Trips to the river

My new friends love to fish 

Start to 2015

 

After the unfortunate events in my community, things have been slowly going back to normal. It is now “pifa” season and people are in the farms harvesting this delicious fruit. Pifa is a nutritious, high fiber fruit that tastes like a cross between a potato and carrot. You boil them in salt water until they are soft and serve in the morning with coffee, delicious!

 

The summer vacation has ended which means that students are back in school but also means I wrapped up my Eco-club.  For our last mini-project we made a welcome sign made of bottle caps (yay reusing). The kids loved working on the sign and the community appreciates the warm welcome.

 

I also brought three kids from my community (ages 12 to 15), to a 5 day camp about professionalism, leadership, sexual health and goal-setting. All in all, there were about 45 kids and 12 facilitators who brought this amazing experience together for these young people from rural Panama. For many of the kids it was the first time sleeping away from home, (for kids from other provinces) the first time talking to Ngäbes or Bugles (indigenous people), learning about sexual health and prevention of STDs and pregnancy, how to make a goal and why goal setting is important in our lives, etc. We had a really productive and fun time and on the last night all 45 kids were crying because they did not want to leave the new friends they had just made.

 

Go team blue!

I hosted a Leadership Seminar in my community. 20 participants received sessions on group organization, time and money management, goal setting and problem resolution. 2 Language and Cultural Facilitators from Peace Corps also came to help out. After the seminar, I plan to do follow-up surveys to see if people are applying what they have learned.

 

Untying the Human Knot

Practicing POCA- a tool for problem solving

Walking in someone else's shoes

 

 

Every participant received a certificate

The legality of reforesting by our water well has still not been resolved, however the eco-club continued to collect seeds and plant along the creek. The adults also organized a clean-up along the path that leads to my community. They used machetes to cut the long grass and we planted trees along the path.

Finally, I have completed a year in Panama! As much of a struggle this year has been, I have really reflected on how much I have achieved in my service and for my own personal growth. I headed to Mid Service Training in Panama City for a required 1 year med and dental checkup (so don’t worry Mom, I am fine and healthy). After the medical appointments, we reflected as a group on how work was going and what challenges we faced. It was a great refresh and inspired me to chug along for the next year. We also took advantage of our paid trip to the city and hit some tourist attractions. We traveled to Panama Viejo, a preserved section of the city with church and buildings from the 1600’s. We took advantage of the delicious street vendor food, night-life, and artisan markets

 

Panama Viejo
 

The newer areas of Panama

Music of Panama

a few of my favorite Panamanian jams (traditional and modern)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OxxggwHFj7M
one of my favorites

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=foyH-TEs9D0
stand by me remix by the gorgeous Prince Royce

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QFs3PIZb3js
a bachata mix- hot pana dance

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fiWn0XTWSvg
more traditional music with instruments and dance

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YXnjy5YlDwk
great inspirational song

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TapXs54Ah3E&t=23
"we fight, then make up, we deal with each other, we love each other" my kinda love song

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2htK9TdbY4A
"Rabbit Dance" a fun song to dance to with the kids or at the cantina!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hH9cQYRiekw
for those reggae lovers, Panama has it too!

eye of the storm

There were 2 deaths in my community on the same night. Rosa, a devoted Christian and family woman of 52 and Juan, the elderly botanical medicine man, both passed on January 15^th at 11pm. Both were terribly sick but we were not expecting such a tragic ending. I was at Rosa’s 3 hours earlier, helping the family out with whatever chore I could: fetching water or cooking soup. I returned home to rest and that evening I was awoken to screaming neighbors outside of my door; she had passed. My immediate reaction was to run. Run to the families. Run to the kids and spouses. I stayed with them all night as they screamed, wept, and even fainted.

The community stopped at a standstill for almost 2 weeks. No one went to the farm, no one left to sell cocoa; the only movement was coffin making and visitation to the families. Hundreds of people came from neighboring communities to pay their respect to the families and Santa Marta.

The death I have experienced in my life as always been somewhat removed- whether it be by distance, time or association. Death is always a sensitive subject and never easy, but I was especially uncomfortable in a culture and country not of my own. I felt like a huge storm was blowing all the trees in different directions, and I was the only non-native species that didn’t know which way to sway. I tried to follow everyone’s example and visited the families, always bearing gifts or helping out with some chore. During moments of long silences, I thought it best to be myself. I once broke a long silence by asking, “Hey you want to learn a funny word in English? Hippopotamus” –which was immediately followed by an uproar of laughter and gestures of gratefulness.

However, as much sympathy as I had for these families, I could not get over my own feelings of loneliness (I am even embarrassed sharing this to the public). During the burials, (mind you in a culture that does not publicly show affection) family members were holding each other, bracing each other, wiping each other’s tears, while I was just… there. That night I went home alone and cooked dinner for myself and ate by myself- a routine I do every day, but was tattered by the absence of my biological family.

What I really want t get across in this post is that Peace Corps is not a fairy tale of successful development work and happy children and beautiful pictures. Life is happening, and it can end at any moment. Cherish every day and call someone you love after reading this.

Trash Talk

Here is a crude metaphor: Trash is like HIV, it’s all over the world and is impossible to cure. The only feasible answer? Prevention.

 In the past few months I have visited several communities to discuss trash management. Most communities burn or bury their trash and since there are very limited alternatives, we discuss ways that burning or burying could be done in a more environmental and health conscience manner. Some examples:

Don’t burn your trash at the hottest part of the day or when kids are close

Don’t bury trash close to the river

It is important to separate your trash before burning to avoid hazardous chemical reactions

We also talk about trash incinerators- large tin cans where trash can be burned. It traps in toxic smoke and burns trash at a faster rate. 


 I have visited 4 different communities but what has sparked the most interest in every community has been recycled artisan. We have made bracelets and purses out of plastic cookie wrappers and soda pop tabs. We have made jewelry out of magazines, and purses out of plastic bags. Panamanians are very talented and have a natural hand for artisan work (most souvenirs are handmade) so it was easy for them to pick up. PLUS there is little to no cost since we are just reusing our own trash! When  I made the recycled artisan charla in Santa Marta, I expected it to last no more than an hour. But surprisingly, people stayed for over 5 hours, men women and children practicing. What I was most proud of was when the trash I had brought ran out, kids when running to voluntarily look for more trash to keep practicing! There was an artisan group in the past, but due to corruption it no longer exists. Who knows if Santa Marta will start a new group or even continue thinking about trash. However, I can say that during this day I saw collaboration and heard ideas of team work and participatory action. I cannot force the community to have a group but I hope to inspire them to continue thinking about trash management and artisan work

bracelet from cookie wrappers

jewelry from soda pop tabs

purse croched from plastic bags

Travelin Band

After 7 months in my community, it was time for a much needed vacation. I crossed the border into Costa Rica (not realizing I only live 2 hours from the border) and met with one of my best friends, Paz.  We went to Manuel Antonio National Park which lies on the Pacific coast of Costa Rica.  The park consists of a few trails in the jungle but is most popular for its beaches. There are tons of guided tours that are available but it is also possible (but not very honest) to just follow a group  to check out the hidden animals and hear some cool facts. We saw plenty of monkeys, snakes, crabs, bats, frogs and raccoons…hungry very raccoons which will steal your lunch on the beach if you’re not careful. After checking out the park we spent 2 days (including Christmas) on the beach. For any interested travelers, we stayed in Hostel Plinio right outside of Quepos. We loved it! It was a very clean, tranquil hostel with a pool and full stocked kitchen.



The country of monkeys!

 

Manuel Antonio National Park

 

Can you see the frog?

Costa Rican Sunset

 It was the first time I had felt genuinely relaxed for a very long time because I was away from everything PC related. I was away from Panama, Panamanians, Panamanian food, PC paperwork, Ngäbere language, meetings, complaining community members and other volunteers. Don’t get me wrong, I love being here and sharing my experiences and support with other volunteers. However when PCVs get together, there’s always the pressure to talk about work or drink our livers off.

We returned to Santa Marta so Paz could get a hint of Peace Corps life. I have my eco-club every Saturday, so she was here to help me facilitate a recycling sessions. We made paper snowflakes and shared our American traditions of Christmas and cold weather. It was very refreshing having a non-PCV visitor. Generally when PCVs visit each other it is because a very exclusive English-speaking only mental break is needed. However Paz  was generally interested in meeting my community members. Her positive commentary on the beauty of my community and welcoming hospitality of the people make me stop and recognize the gratitude I had started to lose. She was a great inspiration when she was exposed to some of the challenges I have had to face (community specific and PC generally)

We also celebrated my birthday and New Year’s Eve in Santa Marta. A few fellow PCVs came to visit. We started the morning with a very successful soap-making class (It can be made out of used-cooking oil; since Panamanians fry everything is a great way to re-use the oil they would just otherwise throw out!). During the class the participants sang (very terribly but whole heartedly) Happy Birthday in English. We spent the rest of the day eating until we were going to explode.

Scuba diving

After visiting Santa Marta, we continued our vacation to Bocas Island where we got scuba certified (any visitors wanna come down to dive, I am all in!) then returned to Costa Rica on the Atlantic side. We visited the Sloth Sanctuary in Cahuita… sloths are actually really cool animals (despite that they spread leishmaniasis, a skin eating bacteria.. my heart goes out to the PCVs in Panama who have suffered from this)

Some awesome fun sloth facts:

They live in trees, but go on the ground once a week to poop/pee

There is no physical evidence of pregnancy; once birth is happening the female just reaches around her backside to catch the baby

Babies are born with a full body of hair and claws

Although slow, when necessary (like defense mechanisms) they can move as fast as a cheetah

The only known species of pygmy sloth lives on an island off of Panama!

Broken bones mend 7x faster than human bones

There is evolutionary evidence that suggests sloths were once the size of t-rexs

 

Buttercup, world's oldest captive sloth

 

I really enjoyed my time in Costa Rica and hope to see more of Latin America while I am down here. Thanks to Paz and the PCVs who joined me for this refreshing vacation!